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烏龍茶

部分氧化的煉金術

烏龍 — *Wū Lóng* — 介於綠茶與紅茶之間,考驗茶師控制氧化程度的功力,平衡花香、果香、焙火或礦物韻味。我們的選品涵蓋中國最具傳奇色彩的烏龍產區,從武夷巖石的峭壁,到鳳凰山古老的單叢茶園,再到安溪雲霧繚繞的山丘。每批均為工夫茶級別,由每年走訪茶園、與歸檔標準比對品評的團隊成員悉心尋得。

綠茶與紅茶之間的風味光譜

烏龍茶 — Wū Lóng — 意為「黑龍」,這個名字暗示著其修長、卷曲的葉片以及它們所經歷的轉化。透過控制氧化程度(從10%到70%不等)並施加精準的焙火,同一茶樹品種可以產生花香翡翠般的茶湯、蜂蜜琥珀色的茶液,或是深邃辛香、礦物感豐富的茶湯。這門藝術在於掌握殺青的時機,茶師往往須在瞬息之間做出決定。

中國主要的烏龍產區各有其標誌性的風格。福建北部的武夷岩茶(rock tea)生長在岩石縫隙中,賦予其獨特的礦物「岩韻」。肉桂品種帶來肉桂辛香及悠長、包覆口腔的綿密口感。更往南的廣東鳳凰山是單叢茶樹的故鄉,茶葉被精製成能呈現單一花卉或水果香氣 — Mí Lán Xiāng(蜜蘭香)即為其中最負盛名之一。同樣位於福建的安溪,是 Tiě Guān Yīn — 鐵觀音的發源地,這種茶可輕度氧化以展現蘭花香,或以傳統炭焙製成深沉溫潤的焦香尾韻。

高級烏龍的採摘季節範圍很窄:春茶(四月下旬至五月)帶來層次感與醇厚度,而秋茶往往芬芳高揚。加工過程依循萎凋、搖青使葉緣破損並觸發氧化、殺青(炒青或熱風)、揉捻、乾燥的節奏進行。許多烏龍茶接著會進行焙火階段,可能在數週或數月後重複進行,以激發出更深層的焦糖與辛香調性。所有我們的烏龍茶均由 Fang Ting 與 Mei Yang 盲測品評,他們每年拜訪製茶者,拒絕的批次遠多於接受的。

欲探索氧化與焙火程度的完整光譜,可參閱 tea.school 的烏龍大師班,或在 thetea.app 上閱讀關於岩茶、單叢與鐵觀音的詳盡剖析。

本季烏龍

三款烏龍技藝的展現:武夷 Ròu Guì 的肉桂辛香巖韻,鳳凰 Mí Lán Xiāng 的甜潤蜜蘭芬芳,以及傳統炭焙安溪 Tiě Guān Yīn — 每一款都需要工夫茶的專注,並以耐性回報。

A buyer's note

How to choose and brew oolong

水溫是關鍵

Lighter, greener oolongs like balled Anxi tieguanyin benefit from 90–95°C water; heavily roasted or twisted yancha can take water just off the boil. Overly hot water on a delicate floral oolong scalds the leaf and flattens the aroma.

用量決定層次

Use 5–7 g of leaf per 100–120 ml vessel. A heavier leaf-to-water ratio reveals the tea’s full character across multiple infusions, especially with dancong and yancha.

多次沖泡不可少

Gongfu brewing with short steeps — 10–20 seconds, increasing gradually — unlocks the evolution of flavor. Most of our oolongs deliver 6–12 distinct infusions; some Phoenix dancongs push beyond 15.

細心存放

Keep oolong in an airtight, opaque container away from light, heat, and strong odors. Lightly oxidized tieguanyin will stay fresh for about a year; roasted teas like rou gui can age gracefully for several years if re-roasted occasionally.

了解焙火程度

Charcoal-roasted oolongs need a short rinse (flash steep) to 'wake' the leaves. The roast character will mellow over the first few infusions, giving way to the tea’s underlying floral or mineral core.

Common questions

Asked, answered.

What defines oolong tea?

Oolong is a semi-oxidized tea, typically between 10% and 70% oxidation, with leaves that are withered, bruised, fixed, rolled, and often roasted. This span creates a vast flavor spectrum from floral and creamy to dark and mineral.

How is oolong different from green or black tea?

Green tea is unoxidized and black tea is fully oxidized; oolong sits in between. The partial oxidation, combined with precise roasting, gives oolong its layered character — often with notes of orchard fruit, orchids, toasted nuts, or wet stone.

What is the best way to brew oolong?

Gongfu style with a small teapot or gaiwan and a high leaf-to-water ratio (5–7 g per 100 ml). Use short, repeated infusions of 10–30 seconds, adjusting temperature to the tea’s roast level. For guidance, tea.equipment offers starter gongfu sets.

How many times can I steep oolong leaves?

Quality oolong yields 6–12 infusions, and some Phoenix dancongs exceed 15. Each steep reveals a different facet: the opening aroma, then body, then a lingering sweet finish called *huigan*.

Should I rinse oolong leaves before brewing?

A quick flash rinse — pour hot water on the leaves and discard immediately — is common for tightly rolled or roasted oolongs. It awakens the leaf and prepares it for an even first infusion.

What does 'rock rhyme' (yan yun) mean?

*Yan yun* describes the unique mineral, mellow, and lingering aftertaste of Wuyi rock tea, attributed to the sandstone soil and mountain mists. It is a marker of authentic, well-crafted yancha.

Is oolong high in caffeine?

Caffeine content varies with oxidation and brewing method, but oolong typically falls between green and black tea. Gongfu brewing extracts caffeine efficiently in early infusions, so the experience can feel stimulating yet balanced by theanine.